Restoring the Coconut Grove ~ Kalapana and Kaimu

The first time we went to Kalapana, we were lost... I can't remember where we were trying to go, but we were not only lost, but... let's not call it "fighting"... but the attitude in the car was ... "tense"....maybe it was just me...

There were 5 of us, and I, for one, was feeling "crowded". (Oh, this was with Richard & Shannan, and their son, Evan - previously mentioned often in my stories.)

Then, we got to the end of the road - literally, the end of the road. In 1990, the Kilauea eruption that started in 1984 reached the village of Kalapana in 1990. The residents tried to resist the lava, putting up sandbags and whatever else could be done to preserve their houses, but in the end... the lava won. It was slow moving lava (pahoehoe*) and everyone was safe - no lives lost, which is a huge relief!! but the financial loss was huge.

At the end of the road (technically, at Kaimu), there was a cafe/diner place with milkshakes and burgers, an honor-system honey kiosk (jars of honey, a list of prices, and a jar to put your money in...no humans), and a bar, called "Uncle's Awa Bar."

It looked like a tiki bar from any Caribbean movie you've ever seen, so we went over and ordered a drink. "A beer, please." "Oh, we don't serve alcohol. Just awa." "What's awa?" (Pronounced, by the way, "ah-vah".)

Well! THAT is a good question! This shrub like plant is a member of the "pepper" family, and it's roots (which can be eaten or drank in tea) are used for medicine and general relaxation. Medicinally, it has been used to treat fevers, headaches, asthma and other respiratory issues...and can be used as a sedative or a muscle relaxant.


We didn't get that explanation at all - just: "It's a drink that the ancient Hawaiians used to drink. You should have some."

So, we did. It tasted like sweet dirt. It was nasty! BUT, within seconds, my tongue started feeling like I'd had Novocaine, and all the tenseness from being trapped in the car was forgotten! Before we knew it, Uncle had sent us out, singing in the rain (did I mention it was raining?) to the shoreline with sprouted coconuts, to help "replant Kalapana."

The picture of us sitting with our Coconut Trees is two years later. I'm happy to report that they were still there.. I mean, they weren't giant, but considering we planted them in shallow black sand, "protected" by a lava flow, where their main source of moisture is salt water sprayed from the ocean...

This time, we tried to find them again... it was difficult! The "forest" is tall!! (Many people have written on their coconuts so they can find them, but I always forget to bring a pen...or crayon...)

I think this could be them, but like I said - It's "overgrown" and I can't be certain. I am claiming them, though.



 Kalapana is now buried under 50-75 feet (16-25 meters) of lava, about 500 acres of new land have been added, and there's a brand new coastline...... and a beautiful black sand beach - it's not a good place to swim, but it's a beautiful view and you can play in the sand (unless the tide is coming in...)

You can actually hike in to see the Pu'u O'o Vent and possible hot lava sightings from the Kalapana angle. Once you are there, ask someone. We haven't done that hike yet. Reviews say it takes 20 minutes to 2 hours to get to the lava... If, in fact, you were guaranteed to see lava, that maybe not too long!!

Reviews also say that there are hustlers who offer to lead you on a tour ... Some say that they are worth it... maybe they are! We hired someone with a broken down truck to take us to the Green Sand Beach and THAT was worth it! (Topic of a later blog). I guess it's "Caveat Emptor"... "Buyer Beware." If I ever find out who's who, I'll let you know. 

(By the way - I'm not suggesting you shouldn't do the hike, nor am I suggesting that you shouldn't hire a guide.... I'm just saying I haven't done it yet, so I don't have a realistic suggestion... However, it is on my to-do list...maybe...) (The Ranger at the Jaggar Museum Lookout said to beware that trespassing may be involved...)

Without hiking, and just from the "End of the Road", you can see the Pu'u O'o Vent, and the steam from the lava river flowing down the mountain. That's pretty "worth it" anyway!

Uncle Robert's Awa Bar is now open on Wednesdays and Fridays, with live music featuring local artists! And, the ice cream shop, the Kalapana Village Cafe, has THE BEST macadamia nut chocolate Kona coffee Ice Cream!! (They might not have that exact flavor - I had so many scoops, they all melded together...and included all my favorites.)

See you Wednesday!
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The Hawaiian Volcano Observatory's website explains "In an eruption with a high effusion rate - where a lot of lava is being
discharged at once - `a`a flows tend to form. If the rate of effusion is low, a pahoehoe flow is more likely to develop..." So, I had to look up "effusion", and in case you don't know already, "Effusion" is "the process in which individual molecules flow through a hole without collisions between molecules. This occurs if the diameter of the hole is considerably smaller than the mean free path of the molecules." Yes. That makes sense and explains the difference.

Here's what I know: "Pahoehoe lava" is smooth, and looks like thick frosting. It isn't great to walk on barefoot, but probably won't cause your feet to bleed. "A'a lava" is jagged, and hurts terrible to step on barefoot! You can remember which is which because when you step on A'a Lava, you will actually yell "Aaaaaaa! Aaaaaa!"

Wikipedia has some pretty good pictures, actually, with a good explanation. (Due to time issues, I can't find my own picture of a'a lava, but will maybe add one later.)

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http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov/volcanowatch/archive/1999/99_05_27.html
http://www.to-hawaii.com/big-island/cities/kalapana.php
http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov/kilauea/history/1990Kalapana/http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalapana,_Hawaii
www.tcroke.com/2012/03/hiking-to-the-puuoo-lava-flow-part-1
http://www.hawaiihighways.com/photos-Red-Road.htm
www.nps.gov/havo

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Speaking of Volcanos, we spent the day in the Volcano area.

As mentioned, Kilauea is the longest continuous erupting volcano in the world, erupting steadily since 1983. In 1983, it wiped out and buried Kalapana. (I plan to talk about Kalapana on Sunday’s blog…or maybe Wednesday’s…)

The first time we went was in 1999, and we were able to walk out a couple of miles over the lava fields, from the end of the Chain of Craters Road, and see the red lava flowing down the mountain. You can still do that, apparently, but it’s a longer walk (MUCH longer, by hours and miles), and you need to do a LOT of research to learn where to go and what to take to make the trip safely: enough water, proper shoes, snacks, first aid kits, overnight gear in case you don’t get back in time…) We could’ve walked further out that night and gotten a better view, but I was all in a panic because we didn’t have flashlights…water…snacks… In fact, we ended up finding our way back by using light from those little snap bracelet things that you used to wear at concerts… (In my picture – the one with the bag on my head – the red glow in the background is lava…)

Anyway – it was cool – the lava stream (river?) was still making its way down the hill, so on occasion, we’d see the lava hit and surround a tree and explode like a candle lighting up! really cool.

Now, it’s more of a steady stream, I guess, and sometimes (often?) it’s more underground, so most of the show happens around the point it enters the ocean. There are boat tours that take you around, to see that angle – but the rangers said that even then, you don’t get to see actual hot molten lava. What she actually said was: “Forget what you THINK you SHOULD see and all of your preconceived notions, and be happy with what you DO see.” I thought that was pretty good advice… for everything – not just lava.

The cost to get into Volcano National Park is $10 for your car, but this year, we happened to be there at National Park Week and got in for free!

Once inside the park, there are hours worth of things to see, including random viewpoints along the way, steam vents which feel like a steam sauna when you stand in them, and the Jaggar Museum look out & gift shop.

From that view-point, you get a really good view of the Halema’uma’u Lava Lake in the Kilauea Crater. AND, if you come back at night, you might get any even BETTER VIEW!!!

Inside the museum, there are a lot of fascinating facts, accounts, and discoveries.

We had walked up to the Museum from a lower parking lot and along the way found long shiny hair-like strings – like…Rapunzel’s hair. Well, the Ranger on site identified them (and had a display) as Pele’s Hair (which…DOES make more sense than Rapunzel’s hair) – tiny fibers of silica fused together into strings – melted strands of glass.

Also worth seeing is the Thurston Lava Tube (Nahuku). A self guided tour, but with a lit pathway through the Tube. A Lava Tube is formed when flowing lava hardens, forming walls and a ceiling. Eventually, the lava stops flowing, and drains out, leaving a cave or a tube. This one is about 600 feet long with a ceiling height of about 20 feet high ~ comfortable for walking and roomy.

One trip, we went in after the Park had technically closed (the Park is open 24 hours, but the Visitor’s Center closes at 5pm and the Museum closes at 7:30pm.) The Tube, at night, is just like it is during the day – a dark tunnel with lights.

HOWEVER, walking to the tunnel (which is about 1/3 of a mile…20 minutes) at night when nobody else is around and it’s pitch dark is CREEPY!!! It is SO CREEPY, we had 2 teenage boys with us the first time who actually cuddled with their mommy on the way (on the pretense that they were protecting her.) I mean – CREEPY! Big leaves falling in the jungle – croaking and creeking animals (which, by the way, are frogs, mostly – nothing dangerous…technically). BUT, in the middle of the night, cute little frogs and falling leaves transform into the boogie man (the Hawaiian’s have a “boogie-man” legend, but I forget what they call it – anyone know?) and wild ravenous animals.

IT WAS FUN!!!! If you can handle it, you should try it. (Also, though, go during the day, too, because the walk is beautiful.

We also took a drive down the Chain of Craters Road – it is a chain of craters – we stopped at about 5 maybe – all worth seeing!!

The plan was to get to the end of the Road, to the place where the lava overtook the road… but we got side tracked by a really interesting 9 mile detour, so by the time we got to the end of the Chain of Craters Road, it was too dark… I mean, well – other people were going out, but they were equipped with backpacks, water, flashlights, picnic baskets, and hiking sticks….we had cameras.

It was also too late to see the Petroglyphs, which were 0.7 miles from the road, according to the sign. Next time, we’ll have to start there.

Speaking of “next time”, Sunday, we’ll talk more about the Volcano area.

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http://www.gohawaii.com/big-island/regions-neighborhoods/kau/nahuku-thurston-lava-tube
http://www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/index.htm