Seahorses and Petroglyphs

I missed seeing the Petroglyphs in Volcano National Park (we accidentally opted to take a scenic drive down an old road so it was too dark by the time we got to the Petroglyph Trail), BUT, fortunately, Chris & Amanda and the girls were up for hiking to the Petroglyphs along the Kohala Coast.

The Petroglyph Trail is beside the King’s Shops, and apparently, there’s a free tour of the petroglyphs.  We just walked around out there and made guesses about what everything was (there are occasional signs, too, to help with your guesses), but it might be handy to have an expert on hand…

The King’s Shops are located in Waikoloa Beach Resort, and include high fashion stores (Louis Vuitton, for example), restaurants, and gift shops.  Across the street is The Queen’s MarketPlace, which includes, along with the fashion stores (Quicksilver and Sunglass Hut, for example) and restaurants, the Island Gourmet Marketplace, which includes gifts, groceries and wine tasting.  (There’s also a large coy pond, at which to wile away the hours, if that interests you – I stayed there while Peter went watch-shopping.)

Between the Kings and Queens shops is the Petroglyph Trail (or Ki’i pohaku, which means something like “Stone Image”.)

The majority of Petroglyphs were carved into the lava stone sometime between the Hawaiian people’s arrival on the Island (obviously) and the late 1700′s (the sign on the pathway says between 1400 and 1800).   Since then, there’s been an occasional addition – some of it is still considered petroglyphs, just newer, but I’m certain that the Smiley Face is just vandalism by some… idiot…

The walk down the trail is as long as you want it to be, really, I think.  You can spend a few minutes or hours, but take water – there’s no shade at ALL!

Also at the Waikoloa Resort is the Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa and the Hilton Waikoloa Village.  I’ve never spent any time at the Marriott there, but you could actually spend an entire trip at the Hilton, I think. (Time and entertainment-wise, anyway.  I can’t speak for your budget…heh… maybe just Google it.  But, they have a lake in the middle for boating (non motorized), Dolphin Quest, a luau, restaurants – and all this just 20 minutes from the Kona International Airport.)

Just 11 minutes from the Airport is Ocean Rider Seahorse Farm.

The Tour is really amazing!  You get to:

~ see baby seahorses (which you can almost not see- but if you look very close, you can see their tiny little tails curling while they swim)
~ sample some super salty seahorse food (veggies grown in salt water, not the microscopic shrimp - blecht)
~ see some pregnant seahorse dads (Yes, it’s true – although the mom deposits the baby egg(s) into the dad’s pouch, and he carries them (maybe 1000′s of them !!!) for up to 25 days!!    The eggs actually hatch in the dad’s pouch, and he carries the babies until they are ready to be out on their own. According to National Geographic, fewer than 5 of every 1000 survive, which is one reason for their decreasing population.   (Also, the same article explains that, although the spiny plates on the seahorse make it difficult for other animals to eat, it’s survival is still threatened by humans, who hunt the seahorse for traditional medicinal usage…)

The Ocean Rider’s website reveals that “According to research done by Project Seahorse the current world consumption for the medicine market alone is estimated to be over 20 million individuals per year and increasing at rate of over 10% per annum and there has been a 50% decline in the world seahorse population from 1990 to 1995, and 70% since 1980.”

Another cause of the declining population is that the poor little wild seahorses are not acclimatized to living in fish tanks, and many people want to include them in their scenery.  Not only are they not acclimatized, but they don’t get proper food, so they die.

It’s very sad.

So, places like Ocean Rider, Inc., are studying seahorses and ways to preserve them, especially for domesticated pets.   They have successfully rebred seahorses in captivity, and provide education and food for people who feel they must have seahorses as pets.

The experts at Ocean Rider have also figured out a “work around” when dealing with the fact that seahorses are monogamous, and what happens when one member of the happy couple dies… But, I don’t want to give it all away, and I also don’t want to get the details wrong, so you will just have to go on the tour yourself.

Two more reasons to go: 1) they also have Sea Dragons at which you can take a peek (no pictures – they are not yet successfully domesticated) and 2) at the end of the tour, you get to hold one of the seahorses!!  (Or, rather, as they clarified, “the seahorse holds you”.  You make your hands like a coral basket and the little seahorse wraps it’s tail around your finger and holds on.  AMAZING!!!)

Next week, Kailua-Kona.

Volcano Village

It’s important to remember that the Volcano National Park and Volcano Village area are around 4500-5000 feet above sea-level and often COLD!!!!

One time, we stayed in a cabin there (which had no heat…or walls…well, there were walls, but they didn’t quite reach the roof (the cabin was still a work in progress)…and the roof had a hole in it for the tree to grow through…loved the cabin! BUT it was COLD! It was so cold, I actually wore all the clothes I had in my suitcase, all at once, to bed. It didn’t snow, but it could have.

So, bring a sweater. And, a raincoat. (The first time we were there, the rain was so cold and drizzly, and I was wearing shorts and a t-shirt, and was already acclimatized to the 80°s Fahrenheit (27° Celcius) temperatures from lower altitudes, I ended up wearing a plastic grocery bag on my head to keep the cold rain off.)

That’s not to say it’s always cold. But chances are good. And, even if it’s not cold, it’s still more chilly than down by the ocean.

Sometimes the rain is a relief, anyway. If you are prepared.

About 15 minutes from the entrance to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (going towards South Point) is the trail head for Ka’u Desert Trail. (There’s a much longer way to get there, too, through the park, but…it’s much longer…)

This Trail takes you to (and passed) foot prints, forever embedded in mud-ash. Just every day footprints. We actually saw one footprint in the back yard area in one of the vrbo’s we stayed at, down by the shoreline (we think).

We haven’t been on this trail yet (I had it on my to-do list this last trip, but ran out of time… However – that link tells all about it. Don’t panic when you read the first description – keep going till you get to the easier route.

In Volcano Village is one of the best Thai restaurants on the Island – Thai Thai. People come from all over the Island just to have dinner there (and, since, as I mentioned, the Island is HUGE – this can mean drives up to 2 1/2 hours or more!) If you go to Volcano, you are just as likely to be asked if you went to Thai Thai as you are to be asked if you went to the Thurston Lava Tube. It’s delicious food, an acceptable price, and mismatched wine glasses. You never know at what point you are going to go someplace, with high expectations and have them destroyed by popularity and conformity. I will be so disappointed the day I go and my wine glass matches someone else’s. But for now – so far so good.

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You can stay right in the National Park – the Hawaii Volcano House has motel rooms and cabins available. It’s the oldest hotel in Hawaii (state or Island? not sure), established in 1846, but has been restored, and recently renovated. It overlooks the Halema’uma’u Crater.

We’ve never stayed there, but I’m sure the view makes it all worthwhile! We always rent homes from the www.vrbo.com (Vacation Rental By Owner) website. So far, we’ve had very successful stays, with no disappointments.

So far, in the Volcano area, we’ve stayed at the aforementioned cabin (not a vrbo), a house in the nearby jungle, and a house at the Volcano Golf Course.

The Golf Course is an 18-hole course (par 72)… I took golf lessons (from a golf genius here in Calgary) and so was anxious to go golfing here. I decided I’d just do 9 holes, so as not to frustrate myself, the people with me (Peter and Richard, that particular time), and the people behind me.

It was so much fun, with such beautiful views (you can see both Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea from the course), I decided to continue on for the 18! (Although, I must confess: I did really lost my concentration when the group of Nene’s* wandered through, with babies in tow… SOO CUTE!!)

Visit, too, the Volcano Winery, for wine tasting and gift shopping. They are open 10am-5pm, every single day, except Christmas. (10am seems a tiny bit early for wine tasting, but at least you know it’s open if you forgot to buy someone’s gift!)

And, Don’t forget the Volcano Farmer’s Market! But, you have to be there at the crack of dawn – I mean, truly! it’s only open from 8am to 10pm…so… we slept through it. The friends we were travelling with, though, sacrificed themselves and went – bringing home yummy samplings for us to try when we woke up!

It seems to me that they brought malasadas…which, I don’t know if that’s true, now, or just a sweet dream… Wait’ll we talk about malasadas! They are even more popular than Thai Thai!

See you Wednesday!

* Nene are the Hawaiian State bird, and looks very similar to a Canada Goose. However (and I’m not sure what all the differences are), but the Nene can only be found in the state of Hawaii (and specifically on the islands of Hawaii (Big Island), Maui and Kaua’i.) I thought that they couldn’t actually fly since I’ve only seen them running and walking along the ground, but apparently they can fly…they just don’t choose to do it often. The Nene is, it turns out, the World’s Rarest Goose… in 2004, it was estimated that there were (approximately) 800 in the wild…

There are signs everywhere that caution you to “watch for Nene crossing the road” and “don’t feed the Nene”. PAY ATTENTION!

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Speaking of Volcanos, we spent the day in the Volcano area.

As mentioned, Kilauea is the longest continuous erupting volcano in the world, erupting steadily since 1983. In 1983, it wiped out and buried Kalapana. (I plan to talk about Kalapana on Sunday’s blog…or maybe Wednesday’s…)

The first time we went was in 1999, and we were able to walk out a couple of miles over the lava fields, from the end of the Chain of Craters Road, and see the red lava flowing down the mountain. You can still do that, apparently, but it’s a longer walk (MUCH longer, by hours and miles), and you need to do a LOT of research to learn where to go and what to take to make the trip safely: enough water, proper shoes, snacks, first aid kits, overnight gear in case you don’t get back in time…) We could’ve walked further out that night and gotten a better view, but I was all in a panic because we didn’t have flashlights…water…snacks… In fact, we ended up finding our way back by using light from those little snap bracelet things that you used to wear at concerts… (In my picture – the one with the bag on my head – the red glow in the background is lava…)

Anyway – it was cool – the lava stream (river?) was still making its way down the hill, so on occasion, we’d see the lava hit and surround a tree and explode like a candle lighting up! really cool.

Now, it’s more of a steady stream, I guess, and sometimes (often?) it’s more underground, so most of the show happens around the point it enters the ocean. There are boat tours that take you around, to see that angle – but the rangers said that even then, you don’t get to see actual hot molten lava. What she actually said was: “Forget what you THINK you SHOULD see and all of your preconceived notions, and be happy with what you DO see.” I thought that was pretty good advice… for everything – not just lava.

The cost to get into Volcano National Park is $10 for your car, but this year, we happened to be there at National Park Week and got in for free!

Once inside the park, there are hours worth of things to see, including random viewpoints along the way, steam vents which feel like a steam sauna when you stand in them, and the Jaggar Museum look out & gift shop.

From that view-point, you get a really good view of the Halema’uma’u Lava Lake in the Kilauea Crater. AND, if you come back at night, you might get any even BETTER VIEW!!!

Inside the museum, there are a lot of fascinating facts, accounts, and discoveries.

We had walked up to the Museum from a lower parking lot and along the way found long shiny hair-like strings – like…Rapunzel’s hair. Well, the Ranger on site identified them (and had a display) as Pele’s Hair (which…DOES make more sense than Rapunzel’s hair) – tiny fibers of silica fused together into strings – melted strands of glass.

Also worth seeing is the Thurston Lava Tube (Nahuku). A self guided tour, but with a lit pathway through the Tube. A Lava Tube is formed when flowing lava hardens, forming walls and a ceiling. Eventually, the lava stops flowing, and drains out, leaving a cave or a tube. This one is about 600 feet long with a ceiling height of about 20 feet high ~ comfortable for walking and roomy.

One trip, we went in after the Park had technically closed (the Park is open 24 hours, but the Visitor’s Center closes at 5pm and the Museum closes at 7:30pm.) The Tube, at night, is just like it is during the day – a dark tunnel with lights.

HOWEVER, walking to the tunnel (which is about 1/3 of a mile…20 minutes) at night when nobody else is around and it’s pitch dark is CREEPY!!! It is SO CREEPY, we had 2 teenage boys with us the first time who actually cuddled with their mommy on the way (on the pretense that they were protecting her.) I mean – CREEPY! Big leaves falling in the jungle – croaking and creeking animals (which, by the way, are frogs, mostly – nothing dangerous…technically). BUT, in the middle of the night, cute little frogs and falling leaves transform into the boogie man (the Hawaiian’s have a “boogie-man” legend, but I forget what they call it – anyone know?) and wild ravenous animals.

IT WAS FUN!!!! If you can handle it, you should try it. (Also, though, go during the day, too, because the walk is beautiful.

We also took a drive down the Chain of Craters Road – it is a chain of craters – we stopped at about 5 maybe – all worth seeing!!

The plan was to get to the end of the Road, to the place where the lava overtook the road… but we got side tracked by a really interesting 9 mile detour, so by the time we got to the end of the Chain of Craters Road, it was too dark… I mean, well – other people were going out, but they were equipped with backpacks, water, flashlights, picnic baskets, and hiking sticks….we had cameras.

It was also too late to see the Petroglyphs, which were 0.7 miles from the road, according to the sign. Next time, we’ll have to start there.

Speaking of “next time”, Sunday, we’ll talk more about the Volcano area.

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http://www.gohawaii.com/big-island/regions-neighborhoods/kau/nahuku-thurston-lava-tube
http://www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/index.htm

Hawaii, The BIG Island

I said we were going to talk about Hawaii in this blog, and I thought that was going to be “easy.” BUT, I can’t figure out where to start!!!

Should I start with “Hawaii, the State”? “Hawaii, the Big Island, general information”? I’ve decided to start with “Hawaii, this time around – Day 1.”

 

Going with people who’ve not previously been to Hawaii is always fun for me, because: we get to do things we did the first time we came, but maybe haven’t done since. OR, we get to do things we do every time, but they seem fresh and exciting, because they are fresh and exciting to someone!

 

This particular trip takes place on The Big Island of Hawaii. (Almost all of my trips to Hawaii (state) take place on Hawaii (Island), called “The Big Island” to avoid confusion. Another point that confuses many people is that “The Big Island” is NOT Oahu. Hawaii (The Big Island) is 4,028.2 square miles (2,578,048 acres). Oahu, by comparison, is 727.3 square miles (465,472 acres.)

 

It’s about 95 miles from the North tip to South Point, 80 miles from east to west, and has 266 miles of coastline.

 

Take a look at the map. Without reading labels, you should be able to pick out which island is the Biggest! That’s the one we are visiting.

 

It’s also the youngest. Compared to Oahu’s estimated age of around 3.4 to 2.2 million years old, Big Island is still a keiki (Hawaiian for “child”) at less than 700,000 years old… and still growing. (As we shall see in a later blog.)

 

The oldest volcano on The Big Island (there are 5 main volcanic mountains that make up the Island) is Kohala, the northern most mountain. It is estimated to be about a million years old, but reached the surface of the water around 500,000 years ago, and the last estimated eruption was around 120,000 years ago. It’s 5,480 feet (1,670 meters) above sea level, and it’s about 5.8% of the land area of the Island. It is considered “extinct”, which means that it will (supposedly) never erupt again.

 

Mauna Kea is considered “dormant”, which means that it hasn’t erupted in the past 200 years (“historic” times), and probably won’t erupt again.

 

Mauna Kea last erupted around 4,500 years ago. It’s name means “White Mountain” and it often has snow on top. You can even ski and snowboard up there! I think some people even go sledding up there too. I haven’t been up there yet, but it’s definitely on my “to-do” list…well, not to go skiing, I don’t

 

think.. it’s REALLY high altitude and often has wind warnings, so timing is tricky.. Plus, I’m not great at skiing and worse at snowboarding… I could maybe sled.. (There’s also caution extended to people who SCUBA, because of the high elevation verses being under the water – something about “the bends”… I guess divers know the restrictions. If not, look it up before you try to SCUBA and summit….Apparently, even if you aren’t diving, altitude-sickness can still be a problem.)

Mauna Kea is 13,796′ (4205 meter) above sea-level, and the ski hill is at the summit. In fact, Mauna Kea (measured from base to peak) is the tallest mountain on Earth, at 33,476 feet (10,203 meters)!!!! (Mount Everest is 29,035 feet (8,850 meters).. I probably won’t sled. It seems cold. BUT, I’d like to see it.

 

Also up on Mauna Kea is the Onizuka Center for Astronomy (also called Hale Pōhaku, which means “stone house”). They have free stargazing every night! (Yes – this is definitely on my to-do list.) The Center is at 9,300-foot (2,800 m) above sea-level, and it’s suggested/recommended to spend time there to acclimatize, before ascending further.

Hualalai is the Big Island’s oldest ”active” volcano, meaning it has, at some point, in the past 200 years. Hualalai’s last eruption was in 1801.

 

The oldest rocks of Hualalai date back about 128,000, but it’s estimated to have reached the ocean’s surface around 300,000 years ago. It is 8,271 feet (2,521 meters) above sea-level.

 

An eruption is predicted for sometime in the future (in the next 100 years, I read), but is carefully monitored by the Hawaii Volcano Observatory… Hopefully, if anything happens, it’ll be a mild and peaceful eruption… like, a breaking through the surface and a trickling stream down the side…where nobody lives…heh.

 

Mauna Loa means “Long Mountain”. This is a great name! It’s HUGE and has the title of being the “Earth’s Largest Volcano“!! It makes up 50% of the total land base for the Big Island. It’s 60 miles long, 3o miles wide, and 13,681 feet above sea-level. It’s below the ocean’s surface by about 5 kms AND THEN! Because it’s soooo huge and heavy, the sea floor has depressed another 8 kms!! So, technically, it’s summit is around 56,000 feet (17kms) above it’s base!! Yikes!

Mauna Loa is estimated to be about 1,000,000 years old, but didn’t reach the ocean’s surface until maybe 400,000 years ago, and the oldest rocks are estimated to be in the 100,000 year range. The last eruption was 1984, and is expected to erupt again…someday.

As discussed, volcano’s are categorized as “Extinct”, “Dormant”, and “Active”. Personally, I have a fourth category: “REALLY Active” – those that are erupting right now! There’s probably an official term anyway, but I didn’t happen across it.

 

“Really Active” is Kilauea, possibly earning the title as “most active” in the world. Although it looks like it’s coming from Mauna Loa, it is actually it’s own volcano. “Kilauea” means “spewing”, which is appropriate since it’s been erupting non-stop since 1983.

 

It’s estimated to be between 300,000 and 600,000 years old, and having reached the ocean’s surface between 50,000 and 100,000 years ago. The oldest rocks date to around 23,000 years old. It is currently 4,190 feet (1,277 meters) above sea-level…the Pu’u O’o Vent (the current erupting point) is a “cinder-and-spatter cone” and lava from it flows through Lava Tubes into the ocean, so it isn’t really gaining height at all, BUT about 500 new acres of land have been added since 1983.

You can see the steam from Pu’u O’o as the lava comes down the mountain and a big plume where it reaches the ocean! Technically, you can hike to get a closer view, but it’s very strenuous and can be dangerous – so do aLOT of research and double check conditions with the Park Rangers at Volcano National Park.

You can also get a pretty good view of the Halema’uma’u Lava Lake right in the Kilauea Crater, from the Jaggar Museum in the Park - it’s kind of at an angle that you can see either steam or the red glow (depending upon the time of day), but not really any liquid lava. They have a web cam, though, too, for an even better view.)

 

An article from October 2012 says that the lava in the Lake had surged about 50 feet (15 meters) and only had about “110 feet (33 m) to go until the lava reaches the top of the vent and floods the crater floor”! (This link has an interesting report from October 2012, plus youtube video.)

 

Wednesday’s blog will be about Kilauea and Volcano National Park. (Oh yes. I’m going to try to get back to a Wednesday/Sunday routine.)

 

Before I go today, though – I just want to talk about one more active volcano – a “brand new” little up-and-comer – Lo ‘ihi. I’m not sure when it first started erupting, but it reactivated in 1996. It is currently about 931 meters tall on the north side, and 3,786 meters on the south side, since it’s growing on a slope.

 

OK! See you Wednesday!

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www.nps.gov/havo
www.to-hawaii.com
www.soeest.hawaii
http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov/volcanoes/hualalai/
http://www.volcanogallery.com/Facts.htm
http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2001/BeataUnke.shtml